Rethinking breakfast

Gail Frank's voice, soft and Southern, made its way through a sea of scientific data. I met her for breakfast at a cozy coffee shop, and while we consumed our eggs (hers an egg-white spinach omelet, mine two eggs over medium) we discussed what Frank considers a crisis of utmost importance: breakfast.

Frank, a professor of nutrition at California State University, Long Beach, and a registered dietitian, says breakfast is an issue for adults and children alike.

"Breakfast fuels us for the day. It is energy for the brain and gets you started," she said, using her fork to cut her huge omelet in half before she'd taken one bite, scooping it into a takeout container to eat later in the day.

"We need 130 grams of carbohydrates a day for normal function. If we don't refuel at breakfast and break the overnight fast, we challenge the body as the brain searches for fuel. Children recall better and go longer if they have breakfast. It's no different for adults."

She said it's a mistake for those hoping to lose or control weight to skip breakfast. Research confirms that people who eat breakfast are the most successful at weight control.

"Breakfast is the first opportunity to eat healthy, and it will be healthy if it is not excessive in calories, fat, sugar or salt," explained Frank, who oversees the nationally accredited dietetic internship program at the university.

"We need about 40 nutrients each day, as our body does not make these. These include protein (with specific amino acids), carbohydrate (starch and sugar), vitamins, minerals and water."

As for calories, she says one quarter of the day's calorie intake should be at breakfast. So if you are eating 2,000 calories per day, which is the average for a 10-year-old child; or 3,000 calories for an active teen; or 1,600 for a struggling, always-hungry food writer, you can do the math.

Frank thinks breakfast can be repackaged with appealing new twists. New approaches that can provide nutrient-rich food can include meals that can cook overnight in a slow cooker or be assembled for on-the-go consumption, in the car if need be.

Planning is crucial because so many people have so little time in the morning. Here are some suggestions:

Eat good ol' oatmeal: "Oatmeal is like a pizza but at breakfast — you can choose the toppings you like," she said. Nuts, fresh fruit, dried fruit or canned fruit — chunky applesauce or yogurt. Some might even like a dab of peanut butter and strawberry fruit spread. She says you can put out several toppings to create an "oatmeal bar" and let people choose their favorites.

Oatmeal is "nutrient-dense, especially from the standpoint of the B vitamins," she said. "It's loaded with fiber, both soluble and insoluble. And you can put the simple ingredients together in the slow cooker at night and wake up to hot oatmeal." (A recipe follows.)

"Even 10 years after the Food and Drug Administration allowed a health claim stating that oatmeal can lower total cholesterol without lowering the good HDL portion, there is no change in the current research findings. In fact, a 2007 study by Andon and Anderson reinforced that oats and oatmeal can also contribute to weight loss."

Portion control is important. For active adults, 1 to 11⁄2 cups cooked oatmeal; for a 10-year-old child, 3⁄4 cup. Or for a teenage boy, 2 cups.

• Sugar substitutes: "Some avoid oatmeal because of their negative perception of sweeteners. You can use some fruit to sweeten it, or a little bit of sugar. But I am not opposed to sugar substitutes. Scientific data show that there is no risk. The negative rumors boil down to urban myths. Why put millions into research and not make use of it? I'd like to get rid of attacks on food that could be helpful."

• O.J. and milk: According to Frank, orange juice and milk are two of the easiest items to serve and most nutrient-rich things you can have.

"Now we have a choice about orange juice. We can buy juice that has been fortified with omega-3 fatty acids or calcium, or get more fiber by buying juice with more pulp."

I asked if it was all right to augment orange juice with other juices — maybe a little pomegranate or cranberry? Occasionally, she replied. "You want children to develop a taste for good old orange juice.

"Looking at today's health conditions, we think low-fat and nonfat milk is best. With these products we're not reducing the nutrients, just the fat."

And speaking of fat, I used a dry piece of wheat toast to sop up the last smidgen of yolk on my plate, and asked her about eggs.

• Yes on eggs: "Yes, they are incredible. In food science we compare everything to the egg. It has the highest biological value of anything on earth. Kids love French toast. And hard-cooked eggs can be made in advance and refrigerated up to four days; they can be part of a great portable breakfast. Scrambled eggs are fast and easy — and you can use just the egg whites or do two eggs and use just one yolk. And you can make them into a sandwich. The American Heart Association recommends four eggs per week."

That's four whole eggs per week. Eat as many egg whites as your little heart desires.

• Breakfast a-go-go: "It's nice to sit down at the table and have breakfast, but for many families that isn't realistic," she said. "Portable breakfasts can begin (with preparation) at home, rather than the drive-through window.

"It could be an oatmeal bar with fruit, or a rice cracker with a small amount of peanut butter. Or put some nutrient-rich, low-sugar cereal in zipper-style bags.

"Plan, plan, plan. It doesn't have to be a difficult deal. The overall mission is to have breakfast, boost your potential and think better."

Place these ingredients in slow cooker overnight, and you'll have piping-hot, fruit-scented cereal in the morning.

Here are some recipes for healthful breakfasts:

• Slow Cooker Overnight Cranberry Oatmeal

Yield: Six servings

1 cup old-fashioned rolled oats (oatmeal)

3⁄4 cup dried cranberries

1 cup chopped, apple

2 cups water

Pinch of salt

Procedure: Place oatmeal, cranberries, apple, water and pinch of salt in slow cooker. Cover and set on low temperature setting; cook eight to nine hours. Stir before serving. Add milk to taste.

• Chocolate Chip Pancakes With Raspberry Sauce

Yield: About 12 pancakes, 11⁄2 cups sauce

Raspberry sauce

1 12-ounce bag frozen raspberries, do not thaw

1⁄3 to 1⁄2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

Pancakes

1⁄2 cup low-fat buttermilk

1 whole egg fortified with DHA (omega-3)

3 tablespoons flax meal

1⁄3 cup pancake mix

1⁄4 cup mini-chocolate chips

For cooking: canola oil

Procedure: To make sauce: In small saucepan combine raspberries, sugar and cornstarch. Cook and stir occasionally over medium heat until bubbly. Cover and remove from heat.

To make pancakes: In medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk and egg. Add flax meal and pancake mix; stir until just moistened. Add chocolate chips.

Add 2 teaspoons canola oil to unheated griddle or large skillet. Heat on medium. For each pancake pour about 2 tablespoonfuls onto hot griddle. Cook until pancakes, are bubbly and slightly dry around the edges. Use a spatula to turn and cook until golden brown. Serve pancakes with a generous helping of raspberry sauce.

• Cook's notes: Flax meal is ground flax seeds. Use about half of the sauce to top one batch of pancakes. Leftover sauce can be refrigerated, well-sealed, and used within one week.

• Cheese and Chive Omelet

Yield: Two servings

4 egg whites

1 large egg

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

1 tablespoon water

1⁄4 teaspoon salt

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1⁄2 teaspoon olive oil; divided use

1⁄2 cup shredded fat-free Cheddar cheese; divided use

Procedure: Beat egg whites, egg, chives, water, salt and pepper in medium bowl until frothy.

Heat 1⁄4 teaspoon oil in small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of egg mixture and cook, lifting edges frequently with spatula to allow uncooked egg to run underneath, until eggs are just set, about two minutes. Sprinkle 1⁄4 cup Cheddar over half of egg mixture. Loosen edges of omelet and fold over the unfilled portion of eggs to enclose filling. Reduce heat to low and cook until eggs are set and cheese begins to melt, about one minute longer. Slide omelet onto plate; keep warm. Repeat with remaining oil, egg mixture and cheese to make another omelet.